Predrag Putic basic chess school for beginners
Predrag Putic basic chess school for beginners

Chess Instructions for Beginners

Introduction

The game of chess is over 1300 years old and is one of the most popular games in the world. It has received more total thought-time than many great works of art and literature. Like a great work of art, chess is a paradox on many levels. It's easy to learn but can take a lifetime to master. There are few games which can match its usefulness as a tool for developing mental abilities, yet it's downright fun.

Chess is a two-person board game which simulates a battle between two opposing armies. The board has sixty-four squares of alternating colors. Each player has a set of sixteen pieces as shown below. One player will have a set of dark or black pieces and the other a light or white set. These symbolize opposing armies.

8 Pawns
2 Bishops
2 Knights
2 Rooks, or Castles
1 Queen
1 King

Moving and capturing: White moves first followed by black. The players continue taking turns using only their own pieces until the game ends. A turn consists of a single act of either moving or capturing. When a piece is moved, it is relocated in the center of a different square. A player can only capture an opponent's piece, not their own. When a chess piece is captured, it is removed from the board and replaced by the attacking piece. Unlike checkers, multiple captures are not allowed during the same move. Captures are also optional. The exception is when the king is in jeopardy and the only way to save him is to capture a threatening piece.


Board Setup

The playing board is the battlefield of the game. It's traditionally oriented so that each player has a white square on the corner to his or her right. The pieces are arranged on the board as shown. Note that the queen always is placed on a square of her own color.

figure 1. Chess Board Setup

Description of Pieces

Pawn: The pawn is considered the weakest piece on the board. It moves laterally one square at a time, as shown in figure 2, with one exception. Each pawn can be advanced by two squares the first time it's moved. Pawns can only move in the forward direction. When they reach the last row, and can be moved no further, they can be promoted to any type of piece on the board except for a king. Generally they are promoted to a queen since this is the most powerful piece on the board. Hence, a player can have more than one queen.

figure 2. Pawn's Movement and Capture

Pawns capture other pieces diagonally in the forward direction. They are the only pieces which do not capture in the same direction in which they move.

Bishop: The bishop has the strength of about three pawns and moves diagonally (see figure 3). Unlike a pawn it can move backwards or forwards. It can also move more than one square at a time as long as it moves in a straight line. In other words, a bishop can move across the entire board. A bishop cannot jump over pieces and can also never move to a different-colored square. Bishops capture by moving in their normal manner to the square occupied by an opponent's piece and replacing it.

figure 3. Bishop's Movement

Knight: Like the bishop, knights have about the same strength as three pawns. Knights are moved in a rather unique manner, one square diagonally and one square laterally (see figure 3). They can move forwards or backwards and are the only pieces which can jump over other pieces (see figure 4). Knights capture by moving in their normal manner to a square occupied by an opponent's piece and replacing it.

figure 4. Knight's Movement

Rook: The rook, or castle, has the strength of about five pawns. Rooks are moved forwards or sideways in a lateral manner as shown in figure 5. They can move backwards and forwards one or more squares at a time. In a given move a castle can only move in one direction along a straight line. To capture a piece, castles are moved in their normal manner to the occupied square where they replace the captured piece.

figure 5. Rook's Movement

Queen: The queen is the most powerful piece on the board and is the equivalent of about nine pawns. A queen can move diagonally like a bishop or laterally like a castle (see figure 6). Like the bishop and the castle, a queen cannot turn corners in a single move. It captures in the same manner as either a castle or a bishop.

figure 6. Queen's Movement

King: A king is only slightly more powerful than a pawn but is nevertheless the most important piece on the board. While the king can move backwards or forwards, either laterally or diagonally just like a queen, it can only do so one square at a time (see figure 7). A king cannot move to a square where it would be in danger of being captured. A king can capture a piece on any square where it can legally move.

figure 7. King's Movement


Special Moves

Castling: While the rook is the second most powerful piece on the board, it starts the game in a poor position to use its power. Also the king, the most important piece on the board, is located in a position which becomes increasingly vulnerable as the game develops. To overcome these problems castling was invented. It is the only time more than one piece can be moved at a time. In castling the king is moved two squares toward one of his rooks and then the rook is placed on the opposite side of the king. For example, if the king moves two squares to the right, the rook is placed one square to the left of the king. This usually places the king in a safer position behind a wall of pawns. It also places the rook in a more powerful position near the center of the board. A king can castle to either side but can only castle once and cannot jump over pieces in the way.

figure 7.

In figure 7 the white king is about to castle toward the queenside of the board (left side of the drawing). The black king has already castled toward the kingside of the board (right side of the drawing). Note that kingside castling places the king in a more remote and hence slightly safer area.

Castling can only occur under the following conditions:

  1. It hasn't been previously done.
  2. There are no pieces in the way.
  3. Neither the rook nor the king have been moved.
  4. None of the squares the king must pass through are guarded by the opponent's pieces. In other words, if moving the king one square instead of two squares would place the king in check then castling is prohibited.
  5. The king is not in check.

Castling is a very powerful move and so it's generally a good idea to castle fairly early in the game. Otherwise an opponent can force the king to move, making castling impossible. Castling early also makes the power of the rooks more useful.

En passant: This is a form of capturing done by a pawn to a pawn and is possibly the least understood rule in chess. Many people play for their entire lives and never use it. Needless to say, if you're a beginner it's best to learn this rule after you have played a few games.

En passant was created so that pawns cannot evade capture by an opponent's pawns by moving two squares on their first move. If this happens, then the opponent's pawn can capture the pawn moving two squares just as though it had moved only one. An opponent can choose not to exercise the right to capture a piece by en passant. However, the right must be used immediately following the opportunity or it is lost.


Objective for Winning

Check: Threatening a king with capture is treated differently from an ordinary piece. The king is not only royal but the objective of the entire game. A player declares "check" when he moves in a manner which threatens an opponent's king with capture. However, the term is only used if  the king has a means of escape. The opponent  must  get the king out of check immediately. This can be done in one of three ways: 1) Move the king. 2) Capture the attacking piece. 3) Move a piece so that it blocks the attack. A king cannot castle if it is in check.

Checkmate: The game is won when an opponent's king is inescapably placed in a position where it would be captured on the next turn. Actually capturing the king and removing it from the board like a common piece would have been unthinkable when chess was invented, and so this is not done. Instead the winner says the word checkmate and the game ends.

Sometimes a king is placed in check several times and never checkmated. Other times a king is placed directly in checkmate. There is no rule saying a king must be placed in check before it is placed in checkmate and there is no limit on the number of times a king can be placed in check.

If a player foolishly exposes his king to check, he is allowed to take the move back. Obviously there is no glory in winning by breaking rules and the rules say one cannot move in a way which exposes one's king to check. Likewise, if there is a means of escape and a player foolishly doesn't take it, the move must be replayed. On the other hand, if a player assumes the game is hopelessly lost and resigns, he or she automatically loses even if later analysis indicates that the situation was not hopeless. Resigning a game is risky but is the sign of an experienced player. Resigning is a way to save face by not pointlessly prolonging the game.

A game can end in a draw in four different ways:

  1. Stalemate: This means there is no legal move an opponent can make when it is his or her turn to move. This often occurs when a king is trapped in a position where its only move would be to move into check
  2. The fifty-move rule: If a piece has not been captured or a pawn moved in fifty moves then a player can declare a draw on his or her turn.
  3. Both sides agree to a draw.
  4. Neither side has enough pieces left to setup a checkmate.

The stalemate is the most disconcerting of the ways to draw because it can snatch victory from an opponent with clearly superior numbers who by all rights should win.




    Chess symbol key

	a-h   = file
	1-8   = rank
	
	K     = King
	Q     = Queen
	R     = Rook
	B     = Bishop
	N     = Knight
	e4    = pawn move (1. e4)
	
	+     = check
	#     = checkmate
	x     = capture (7. dxe5)
	0-0   = King-side castle
	0-0-0 = Queen-side castle
	
	...   = black to move first (31...b5)
	/     = pawn promotion (42. a8/Q)
	
 	!     = good move
	!!    = brilliant move
	?     = bad move
	??    = blunder
	!?    = interesting move
	?!    = questionable move
	
	*     = easy
	**    = moderate
	***   = hard
	****  = very hard


Basic Elements of Chess

Open with either the King’s Pawn or the Queen’s Pawn.

Make one or two Pawn moves in the opening, not more.

Play to get control over the center.

Always try to maintain at least one pawn in the center.

Develop Knights before Bishops.

Do not bring your Queen out early.

Castle as soon as possible, preferably on the King’s side.

Whenever possible, make a good developing move which threatens something.

Pick the most suitable square for a piece and develop it there once and for all.

Push, and defend your passed Pawns.

Try to promote a passed Pawn.

Attack Pawn chains at the base.

Attack only if you control the center.

Attack in the area where you control more space.

Place your Rooks on open files, whenever possible.

Place your Rooks on the seventh rank, whenever possible.

Knights positioned on the rim (the side of the board) are grim (not so good).

Queens belong in front of Bishops and behind Rooks during an attack.

If you have more Pawns than your opponent, exchange pieces not Pawns.

If you have fewer Pawns than your opponent, exchange Pawns not pieces.

If your opponent has a passed Pawn try to blockade that Pawn.

Always start and end the game with a friendly handshake, and remember to have fun.



Here's a list of weaknesses that enable tactical exploitation. Keep your eyes open for them.

1. Loose (unguarded) Pieces – “Loose Pieces Drop Off” = LPDO.

2. Pieces that can easily be attacked by enemy pieces of less value.

3. One or More Pieces than Can be Attacked via a "Discovered" Attack."

4. Weak Back Rank.

5. Pinned or “skewerable” Pieces along the same rank, file, or diagonal.

6. Overworked Pieces (Pieces guarding more than one piece or square).

7. Inadequately Guarded Pieces.

8. Falling Way Behind in Development (overwhelming opponent forces).

9. Opponent’s pawns nearing promotion.

10. King uncastled or without adequate pawn protection with Queens on the board.

11. Open enemy lines for Rooks, Queens, and Bishops to attack King. t

12. Pieces that have little mobility and might easily be trapped if attacked.

13. Backward Pawn.




What are chess ratings?

Q: What are chess ratings? Are they important to student players?!

A: Chess players who participate in official tournaments are initially given a numerical rating that reflects their estimated strength relative to other players. This rating then fluctuates based on the outcome of every game that player plays in a rated tournament. In the Northwest two rating systems are currently in use for student players, which produces two separate ratings for each player: a WSRS rating (Washington State Rating System) and a USCF rating (United States Chess Federation). The WSRS provides students with ratings that are used only in scholastic tournaments and reflect current student performance against other students. Student players with a USCF rating can compare their ratings on a continuous and nationwide scale against rated adults for purposes of open tournament competition.!

Typically, student ratings range from a value of 0 to 2200. A rating of 2200 signifies mastery of the game and anyone rated 2200 or above is considered a chess master—a “chess black belt.” The average rating of adults is about 1550. The rating scale is divided up into 200 point categories for recognition and 'class award' purposes.!

The purposes of a rating system are many-fold: ratings make “swiss” pairings possible in open tournaments, allow players of similar strength to compete against one another in “class” tournaments, allow players to gauge their improvement over time, and provide the basis for chess titles and awards. Typically, ratings change by +16 points for a win and by -16 points for a loss and 0 for a draw. However, this 16 point difference is 'adjusted' to take into account the rated strength of your opponent. This 'adjustment' is 4% of the difference between your ratings.!

Example: A 1000 rated player (as expected) defeats a 700 rated player -- the 1000 rated player gains 16 points minus 4% of the difference between their ratings (300 points X 4% = 12 points). So the 1000 rated player only gains 4 points because a 1000 rated player is expected to defeat a 700 rated player! The 700 rated player loses 16 points minus the 4% difference or 16-12 = 4 points lost by the 700 rated player. Please note that for each game the two players will always gain and lose the same amounts (i.e., if one player wins 10 points the rating system dictates that the other player will lose 10 points—the mathematical procedures guarantee this result). A draw results in each player gaining or losing 4% of the difference between their ratings (as expected): a draw between a 1200 rated player and a 1000 rated player will give the 1000 rated player 8 points (4% of 200) and the 1200 player will lose 8 points (because a win was expected of the higher rated player and only a draw resulted).!

Note that really big point gains (and losses) occur when a lower-rated player defeats a higher-rated player! For example, a 900 rated player who defeats a 1200 player will gain 16 points adjusted upward by an additional 12 points (4% of the difference between their ratings) for a total gain of 28 points! The 1200 rated player likewise loses 28 points—ouch! The rating system permits a maximum gain or loss for each game of 32 points. One word of advice to student players. Chess ratings for developing and improving players change rapidly over time. Your current strength is no doubt greater than your current published rating. Do not be intimidated by any player based on rating! Your actual strength could be greater than the rated strength of your seemingly higher-rated opponent! Student players should not base their expectation for the result of any game they play on the respective ratings of player and opponent.!

If players always performed in accordance with their ratings, their ratings would never change! But players' skills, concentration, maturity, and chess understanding do improve! And you will defeat higher rated opponents! Do not handicap yourself by low expectations and do not seek to excuse your performance based on your opponent's rating! Chess depends on your motivation and your ability—not on some abstract rating! Always play to win;always seek to play your best;always permit all of your skill to shine through! Your play will talk for you—not your rating!!

Chess players need to focus on playing the game, have confidence on their growing chess skill, and play each game with the full intention and confidence of winning! Student chess players should disregard ratings when it comes to playing their game! Play your best and have fun! That is what is important!







 

The Language Of Chess

Following is a selection of the more common chess-related terms.

Blunder: To totally miss something obvious, giving the benefit to the opponent.

Patzer: A player who cannot seem to improve his game, though he has played for years. A patzer is blundering all the time.

Trap: A move that attempts to induce a mistake by the opponent.

Opening: The first 10 to 15 moves of the game. This is the first phase of the game.

Middlegame: The second phase of the game, where most of the action takes place.

Endgame or Ending: The last of the 3 phases of the game, when only a few pieces are left on the board.

File: a column in the chessboard.

Rank: a row in the chessboard.

Wing or Side: The board can be divided into 2 vertical halves: the queen's wing or queenside (including files a-d) and the king's wing or kingside (including files e-h).

Light Piece: A bishop or a knight.

Heavy Piece: A queen or a rook.

Light-Squared Bishop: A bishop, either white or black, that moves on the white squares.

Dark-Squared Bishop: A bishop, either white or black, that moves on the black squares.

Check: To threaten the opponent's king.

Checkmate or Mate: To threaten the opponent's king, so that it has no escape. This ends the game.

Stalemate: A player is stalemated if he has no valid moves at his disposal, but he is not in check. The game is drawn in the case of stalemate.

Material: 1 or more pieces, not including the king.

Development: The procedure of moving the pieces from their initial positions into more active squares. It is very important to develop one's pieces in the opening.

Tempo: The time to play a move. To 'win a tempo' means to proceed in such a way as to appear to be making 2 moves instead of one. This may happen, for example, when threatening the enemy Queen while proceeding in development; the opponent will have to move the Queen and delay his own development by 1 tempo.

Pin: to make a move that prevents an enemy piece from moving, or if it does, another enemy piece behind it (lying in the same rank, file or diagonal) can be captured. The pin is an 'absolute pin' if the second piece is the King; in this case the pinned piece cannot move at all.

Exchange: To capture an enemy piece and let the opponent capture a piece of the same value.

Simplification: 1 or more exchanges lead to simplification of the position.

Sacrifice: A purposeful loss of material in order to bring in (usually after a combination) a bigger advantage.

Gambit: A pawn sacrifice in order to achieve something, usually a valuable tempo or the opening of files, diagonals, etc.

Variation: A possible sequence of moves that arises from a position.

Combination: A sequence of moves that results in an advantage, either material or positional.

Plan: The result of a mental process concerning how one should proceed in a position. It consists of sequences of moves, intended piece locations and other observations. A plan often uses general concepts.

Strategy: The methods 1 player uses to accomplish a plan. Must be based on the strategic factors that are present.

Tactics: When several captures, threats, pawn thrusts, etc. take place, a position is said to have tactical possibilities. To play correctly, the players need to examine the tactics (calculate or 'count' the variations).

Positional: Anything relevant to the piece's positioning and to how it affects the evaluation of a certain position.

Maneuver: A sequence of moves that places a piece on a target square.

Analysis: A complete examination of tactical and positional possibilities, usually containing explanatory comments.

Pawn Majority: To have more pawns in a wing than the opponent has.

Blocked Pawn: A pawn that cannot advance because an enemy pawn blocks its way.

Free Pawn: A pawn that may advance easily, for there are no enemy pawns in front of it on its own file or on nearby files.

Isolated Pawn: A pawn is isolated when no pawns of the same color are in the nearby files.

Backward Pawn: A pawn that is weakened because it has not advanced as much as the pawns on the nearby files.

Doubled Pawns: 2 or more pawns of the same color residing on the same file.

Center Pawns: The pawns d2, e2 and d7, e7 in the initial position.

Compensation: Return to a previous position to compensate for a material loss.

Initiative: The privilege to be a little more active than the opponent. It is considered to be a slight advantage, but if not exploited it may vanish.

Opposition: In an endgame a player has the opposition if his King is placed opposite the enemy King in the same file, rank (or diagonal, in the case of the diagonal opposition) with 1, 3 or 5 squares in between.

Forced Move: A move that one is obliged to make, because it is the only valid move in the position. Sometimes used to describe a move that, if one does not make, he will lose for sure.

Zugzwang: A move that leads to defeat and is such that, if one could avoid making (say if he could 'pass'), he would not lose.

Waiting Move: A move that leads to zugzwang.

Swindle: A ruse by which a player in a losing position tricks his opponent, and thereby achieves a win or draw instead of the expected loss.

Time Trouble: The situation where a player must make a number of moves in a short time.

Bad Bishop: A bishop which is hemmed in by pawns of its own color.

Blindfold Chess: A form of chess in which one or both players is not allowed to see the board.

Blitz Chess: A form of chess with a very small time limit, usually 3 or 5 minutes per player for the entire game. With the advent of electronic chess clocks, it is often the case that the time remaining is incremented by 1 or 2 seconds per move.

Fool's Mate: The shortest possible chess game ending in mate: 1. f3 e5 2. g4 Qh4# (or minor variations on this).



Pieces

King

The king is the most valued piece in the game of chess for it is priceless. This is because the objective of the game is to capture your opponent's king. The king has the ability to move one space in any direction. It also has the ability to castle.

 

 

 

 

 

Queen

The queen may not be the most valued piece on the board but is the most powerful with a point value of 9. The queen can move any number of spaces in any direction.

 

 

 

 

 

Rook

The rook, also a powerful piece, has a point value of 5. The rook has the ability to move horizontally or vertically any number of squares in any direction. This piece also has the ability to castle.

 

 

 

 

 

Knight

The knight, having a point value of 3, is a minor yet vital piece in the game of chess. The knight, unlike any other piece on the chessboard, can 'jump over' pieces. The knight moves in an 'L' shape moving either two spaces horizontally and one space vertically, or two spaces vertically and one space horizontally.

 

 

 

 

 

Bishop

The bishop has a point value of 3, making it a minor yet vital piece in the game of chess. The bishop can move diagonally any number of squares in any direction.

 

 

 

 

 

Pawn

The pawn, having a point value of 1, is the least valued piece on the board however can be the difference between winning and losing a game of chess. Pawns can only move forward one space however; from its starting position a pawn can advance two spaces. Pawns don't capture pieces by advancing strait into them horizontally or vertically; instead they capture pieces by advancing diagonally into the piece. The pawn, despite its disadvantages has many advantages that other pieces don't have making it an important piece. The pawn's special ability is that it can be exchanged for a queen, rook, knight, or bishop when it reaches the last square on the other side of the board. It also has the ability to perform en passant.

 





The Rules of Chess for Kids

Chess is a game played by two players. Each player moves one set of pieces, one set being called 'white' and the other set called 'black'. To start the game, the players place their pieces on the board as follows:

Starting the Game

Once the pieces have been placed in their starting positions, the player who has the white pieces makes the first move. After the white player makes their move, the black player makes a move. The two players take turns making a move until the game ends.

! Important: a player may not skip their move. They must make a move.

Moves

To make a move, a player chooses one of their pieces on the board, and moves it from its current square to another square. The square it moves to must either be empty, or contain a piece belonging to their opponent.

If the square contains an opponent's piece, then that piece is removed from the board and placed off to the side. This type of move is called 'capturing'.

The Pieces

In chess, there are six types of pieces. Each type of piece moves in a different way. This makes chess difficult to play at first because you have to remember how six different pieces move.

The Pawn

The pawn is special because it has two different moves. One type of move is where it moves to the empty square directly in front of it.

The other type of move is where it moves to capture a piece in front on the left, or in front on the right.

.
A pawn's move

When a pawn moves straight
ahead, the square it moves to
must be empty.

. A pawn's first move

On it's first move,
the pawn may move
two squares straight ahead.
It may not jump when
making this move.

The Pawn

In this example, the pawn can either move one square forward, or, since it hasn't moved yet, it may move up two squares.

When a pawn moves up two squares, it cannot leap over a piece. So if there is a piece directly in front of the pawn, it cannot make the two square move.

Remember: For this move, the pawn must move to an empty square.

The Pawn

The other type of move a Pawn may make is one in which it makes a capturing move to the square in front to the left, or the square in front to the right.

! Important: when the pawn moves like this, it may not move to an empty square!

Notice that the White Pawn cannot move directly forward. That's because when the pawn moves straight forward, it cannot make a capture.

The King

The King moves one square in any direction. He may not move to a square where he could be captured.

The King

The King moves one square in any direction. He may not move to a square where he could be captured.

The Queen

The Queen moves in a straight line in any direction. She may not jump over other pieces.

The Queen

The Queen moves in a straight line in any direction. She may not jump over other pieces.

The Bishop

The Bishop moves straight, but not forwards, backwards, or sideways. He moves through the corners of the squares. He cannot jump over other pieces.

The Bishop

The Bishop moves straight, but not forwards, backwards, or sideways. He moves through the corners of the squares. He cannot jump over other pieces.

The Knight

The Knight (or Horse) is special because it can jump over other pieces. It moves by leaping two squares forwards, backwards, or sideways, and then turning and leaping one more square, making an 'L' shape.

The Knight

The Knight (or Horse) is special because it can jump over other pieces. It moves by leaping two squares forwards, backwards, or sideways, and then turning and leaping one more square, making an 'L' shape.

The Rook

The Rook (or Castle) moves straight forwards, backwards, or sideways. It cannot jump over other pieces.

The Rook

The Rook (or Castle) moves straight forwards, backwards, or sideways. It cannot jump over other pieces.

When you Attack the King

When you make a move that puts your opponent's King in danger of being captured, you tell your opponent you're attacking their King by saying "Check."

Your opponent must then make a move that protects their King. If they can't make such a move, then you win the game.

Why?

The moving player says "Check" as a polite way of telling their opponent that they have to protect their King on their next move.

When you Attack the King

In this example, White moves her Queen to a square where she is attacking Black's King. After White moves, she says "Check."

Protecting Your King

The Black King is being attacked by the White Queen. One way of protecting your King is to move it to a square that isn't being attacked. Here Black moves his King so that it is no longer attacked by the White Queen.

Protecting Your King

The Black King is being attacked by the White Queen. Another way of protecting your King is to move a piece that blocks the piece that is attacking your King. Here, Black moves his Knight to block White's Queen from attacking his King.

Protecting Your King

The Black King is being attacked by the White Queen. Another way of protecting your King is to capture the piece that is attacking your King. Here Black uses his Rook to capture White's Queen.

The King Must be Kept Safe!

When you make a move, you can never make a move that will let your opponent capture your King.

Why?

Because if you did that, your opponent would capture your King and the game would end with you losing!! And no one would want to do that on purpose!

Winning!

A player wins the game when they can, on their next move, capture the opponent's King, and there's no move their opponent can make to prevent it.

Winning

Here's an example where the White player wins the game. We're at a point in the game where it is White's turn to move.

Winning

White moves the Queen to a square where it is attacking Black's King. So White says "Check!" to tell Black that they have to protect their King.

Winning

Black has only one move. The Black King cannot capture the White Queen because the White King would then be able to capture the Black King! And the Black King cannot move down, or to the side, or to the upper right because the White Queen covers all those squares. So the Black King must move up one square.

Winning

White now moves their Queen again, and this time, Black's King has no escape. The Black King cannot capture the White Queen because the White King would then be able to capture the Black King! And the Black King cannot move down, or to the side because the White Queen covers all those squares.

So White says "Check mate!!" because that's what players say when they win a game.

Special Pawn Rule

You may wonder what happens when a pawn reaches the last row of the board. Does it just sit there unable to move? Does it disappear?

The answer is no! When you move a pawn to the last row, you remove the pawn from the board and replace it with another piece!! You can replace it with a Queen, or a Rook, or a Bishop or a Knight.

So three things happen on the turn where you move a pawn to the last row:

  1. You move the pawn to the last row.
  2. You remove the pawn from its square on the last row.
  3. You put your replacement piece on that same square in the last row.

The new piece can now move on the next turn!

Super Confusing Rule 1:
Castling

This rule is called 'castling'. Don't worry if you don't understand it right away because it is a confusing rule!

The rule is this: If there are no pieces between your King and Rook, and your King is not under attack, and neither your King or your Rook has moved yet, then you can move them both at the same time!

You can only do this once per game, and you don't get to choose which squares they move to. The King must move two squares towards the Rook, and the Rook must move to the square next to the king (on the other side).

Castling

Here's an example of castling on the other side. Here the Rook has to move farther because he's farther away from the King.

We're almost done with Castling, but this wouldn't be super-confusing without just one more rule!

Castling

Confused yet? Well, don't worry, there's only one more part to this rule. You can't castle if either of the two squares your King has to move through is attacked by your opponent.

You can see here, that White cannot Castle because the Black Knight is attacking the first square that the King has to move through.

Why?

What is the purpose of Castling? The reason you castle is to help get your King to a safer place on the board, and also to help get your Rook to a place where is can get out from behind the pawns.

Super Confusing Rule 2:
En Passant

This rule is called 'en passant'. Don't worry about what 'en passant' means yet. You must devote your entire brain to understanding this rule. Why? Because it's Super Confusing!

The rule is this: Let's say it's your turn to move, and you move one of your pawns two squares forwards. Let's also say the pawn you just moved ends up right beside one of your opponent's pawns. Now it's you opponent's turn. Your opponent, may say 'en passant' and move their pawn to the square your pawn would have ended up if it had only moved one square. You opponent then removes the pawn you just moved from the board.

Whew!! Keep in mind: this type of move doesn't happen much. Also keep in mind that your opponent must make the en passant move on the turn right after you moved your pawn two squares forward. If he waits until the turn after that, it's too late and he can't do the en passant move.

Super Confusing Rule 3:
Stalemate

This rule is called 'stalemate', and it is very stale. When stalement happens, the game is a tie. No one wins and no one loses.

The rule is this: If your King is not being attacked, but you still can't move any of your pieces, then you call out 'stalemate!' and the game is over. Neither player wins -- it's a tie!

In this example, White moves his Queen over near the Black King. When it's Black's turn, she sees that she cannot move her King, and her King isn't being attacked! Since she has no other pieces to move, she can't make any move at all! She then gives her opponent the bad news by saying 'stalemate'.

Remember: It's not stalemate if the King is attacked!









Chess notation is universal way of describing moves on a chessboard. Chess notation turns the chessboard into a grid of numbers and letters. Using the grid it is possible to record games. The grid is read where the letters are on the sides that the pieces start on reading a b c d e f g h from left to right. The numbers, running across the left and right sides start with one on the white side and ends with 8 on the black side.  When reading or writing chess notation each piece has it’s own abbreviation. They are:

-         King- K

-         Queen- Q

-         Bishop- B

-         Knight- N

-         Rook- R

-         When recording the pawn you leave the piece identification blank

When recording the move of a piece you first record the identification of the piece. If you moved the rook for example you would record R. Next to the letter you record the column that the piece moved into. For example if the rook moved into column d it would look like Rd. The last part of the recording is the the row that the piece moved into. So, altogether the move would be Rd1 or read out to be as rook to d 1 which is where the white queen starts out on the board. When writing down a move where a piece has been captured you put an x between the piece identification and column the piece moved into so the recording would look like Rxd1. When recording a check you write + and when recording a checkmate you write ++. A king side castle is recorded as 0-0 and a queen side castle is recorded as 0-0-0.




Special Moves

Castling

Castling is a special move used to protect the king and move the rook to the center of the board at the same time.

There are two different kinds of castles, a king side castle and a queen side castle. A king side castle is when the castle is on the side that the king started on. For white it would be Kg1 and Rf1 and for black it would be Kg8 and Rf8. A queenside castle is when you castle on the side that the queen started on. For white it would be Kc1 and Rd1 and for black it would be Kc8 and Rd8.

When castling there is certain criteria that must be followed. They are:

-         no pieces may be standing between the king and the rook

-         neither the king or the rook may have moved during the game

-         the king can not be in check

-         the king can not castle into check

-         the king can not cross a square guarded be an enemy piece

 

En Passant

 

The en passant rule is most likely a leftover from the original game of chess where pawns could only advance one space at a time. En passant prevents players from advancing pawns two spaces at a time.

En passant is when your opponent moves his pawn two spaces forward and is next to your pawn. On your move you can then move your piece behind the recently advanced pawn. In the process of doing this you have also captured your opponent’s pawn.

 

Scholar’s Mate

Scholar’s Mate is a quick way of getting way of getting your opponent in checkmate in four moves. It begins with the opening move of e4 or e5. The next move is Bc4 or Bc5. Then move Qh5 or Qh4. Finally to finish it off you move Qxf7 mate or Qf2 mate.

 

Fork

The fork is a move that uses one piece to attack two other pieces at the same time.

Pin

Chess pin rookA pin is when a piece is stuck to another more valuable piece and moving it will leave the more valuable piece exposed for capture.



Stalemate

Stalemate is when a legal move cannot be made, however the king is not in check. This example to the left would be checkmate if it was black's turn.

 

The Fifty-Move Rule

The fifty-move rule comes into play when a pawn has not been moved or a piece has not been captured for fifty moves.

 

Perpetual Check

Perpetual check is when one of the kings can’t escape the barrage of checks used on him or her.

 

Agreement Between the Two Players

A draw can be called when neither player wants to risk losing.

 

Insufficient Mating Material

Insufficient mating material draws come into play when there are not enough pieces on the board to force checkmate. These pieces are:

-         king and bishop against king

-         king and knight against king

-         king and two knights against king

-         king against king

 

Three-fold Repetition is reached on the board on three different occasions




Here will begin the beginner section of Chess Tutorial Page. If the viewer finds this section to be over their head due to a lack of vivid description on my part, or a lack of concept on theirs, go to another site. I would recomment FIDE.com, but I think this section is simple, concise, and understandable.

BASIC RULES OF CHESS

The chess board is an 8x8 checkered board. Games are played between two people. Each one gets 16 pieces with different ways to move. The two competitors each take turns moving their pieces to different places. After the pieces are set up in the desired position, the goal, simply put, is to kill the enemy "king", one of the chess pieces. If one team is 1 move away from killing the enemy king, and the opponent has no move which will avoid the death of the king, it is called "checkmate". When someone is checkmated, they lose. I will have this explanation expanded and diagrammed so it will be more clear for anyone who does not understand the small description of chess I have provided.

HOW TO MOVE THE PIECES

There are 6 types of pieces in the wonderful game of chess. There are

pawns-> bishops-> knights-> queens->rooks->and kings->

Now that I have explained the goals of chess and the names of the pieces, I will explain how each piece moves. Each one moves differently, but only move 1 at a time. The way each individual piece moves creates a perfectly balanced game. After the piece movement is thoroughly understood, I will continue link it to a discussion about how to win a game of chess.

This piece is the bishop. If the diagram doesn't explain how it moves, a bishop moves along diagonals. They move diagonally. in other words, if the bishop was where it is in this diagram, it could follow any of the arrows I have drawn. It can move up to 8 squares, because that's the number of squares in the biggest diagonals. If you can not yet comprehend how a bishop moves, ask your dad. If he doesn't know, your family is deprived. Sorry for that ugly looking chess board, but you try drawing one! I mean really, its not as easy as you think!

This is the Rook. Again, if you can't see how it moves from the diagram you are a huge idiot. It moves along ranks and files. It moves forwards and sideways. In other words, it could follow any of the green lines shown in a single move. A rook can move up to 8 squares in 1 move, because that's the length of the board. I can not think of a more vivid way to descrive rook movement, but remember, it moves straight. The word straight might be the easiest way to remember it.


If you aren't already aware, the horse-like piece you see here is a knight. The knight's movement might be over the heads of the more idiotic viewers of this page, but I'll try to explain. It moves in an 'L'. It moves 2 spots straight and one spot to the side after that. If a knight was located where it is in this diagram, its moves could allow it to land on any of the big dots you see before you. A knight is the only piece that can skip over other pieces. Remember, it makes an L. If you follow a knight's path from where it starts to where it ends, you can make an 'L' out of it. If you still dont get it, follow the lines I drew, and note that they are all 'L's. I did my best, if you dont follow my teachings, you're an idiot.


This is the queen. The queen is a bishop + a rook. It can move across diagonals and along files and ranks. It moves sideways and crossways. In other words, if the queen was where it is on the diagram, it coul go across the green lines. The queen is the most valuable attacking piece in the game, due to its mobility.

This will be a reach for some of us. Lets see if we can understand how to move the king now. The king moves 1 tile in any direction. I repeat, it can go to any tile directly next to it. Whether it be diagonal, on it's side, under or over it, it can go there. It can only move 1 space, no more. If you don't follow, look at the diagram. The king can go to any one of the places where the green line ends.

Ah, the pawn, the most confusing of pieces. The pawn, moves 1 spot upward. It can only move forward, it can not move backwards. However, on the pawn's first move, it can go one space forward OR 2 spaces forward! Now, when capturing pieces, most pieces take by landing on top of the opponent's piece. The opponent's piece is within the piece's line of movement. However, a pawn has to travel sideways to capture. If there is a piece in front of a pawn, the pawn can not take it, and will be blocked. If the piece is diagonally in front of the pawn, the pawn can take it.





CHESS TUTORIAL BASIC














10 Opening Rules:

1. Open with a center pawn
2. Develop with threats
3. Develop knights before bishops
4. Don't move the same piece twice if you can help it
5. Make as few pawn moves as possible
6. Don't bring your queen out too early
7. Castle as soon as possible, preferably on the kingside
8. Play to gain control of the center
9. Try to maintain at least one pawn in the center
10. Don't sacrifice without a clear and adequate reason. For a sacrificed pawn, you must: A) Prevent enemy castling ; B) Deflect the enemy queen; C) Gain three tempi; D) Build up a strong attack; or E) a combination of the above.

10 Middle Game rules:

1. Have all your moves fit into a definite plan. A Plan must be flexible, specific, and short. Some feature of the position must suggest a plan. A Plan must be based on the principles.

Position Evaluation:
(a) Enemy Threats
(b) Piece Mobility
(c) Material
(d) Pawn Structure
(e) King Safety

2. When you are ahead in material, exchange as many pieces as possible, especially queens.
3. Avoid isolated, doubled, and backward pawns.
4. In cramped positions, free yourself by exchanging.
5. Don't expose your king while the enemy queen is still on the board.
6. All combinations are based on double attack.
7. When your opponent has one or more pieces exposed, look for a combination.
8. To attack the enemy king, you must first open a file (or less often a diagonal) to gain access for the heavy pieces.
9. Centralize the action of all your pieces
10. The best defense is a counter attack.

10 Endgame Rules:

1. To win without pawns, you must be a rook or two minor pieces a head in material (two knights excepted).
2. The king must be active in the endgame.
3. Passed pawns must be pushed.
4. The easiest endings to win are pure pawn endings.
5. When one pawn ahead, exchange pieces, not pawns.
6. Don't put your pawns on the same colored squares as your bishop.
7. Bishops are better than knights in all but blocked pawn positions.
8. It is worth a pawn to put a rook on the seventh rank (comprised of four or more pawns).
9. Rooks belong behind passed pawns.
10. Blockade passed pawns with the king.




A Summary of Hints, Pointers and Precepts from the
ABCs of Chess

Bruce Pandolfini
  1. Be aggressive, but play soundly. Don't take unnecessary chances.
  2. Make sure every move has a purpose.
  3. If you know your opponent's style, take advantage of it. But, in the final analysis, play the board, not the player.
  4. Don't ignore your opponent's moves.
  5. Don't give needless checks. Check only when it makes sense.
  6. Answer all threats. Try to do so by improving your position and/or posing a counter-threat.
  7. Play for the initiative. If you already have it, maintain it. If you don't have it, seize it.
  8. When exchanging, try to get at least as much as you give up.
  9. Take with the man of least value, unless there is a definite reason for doing otherwise.
  10. Cut your losses. If you must lose material, lose as little as possible.
  11. If you blunder, don't give up fighting. After getting the advantage, your opponent may relax and let you escape.
  12. Never play a risky move, hoping your opponent will overlook your threat, unless you have a losing position. In that case, you have nothing to lose.
  13. Rely on your own powers. If you can't see the point of your opponent's move, assume there isn't any.
  14. Don't sacrifice without good reason.
  15. When you can't determine whether to accept or decline a sacrifice, accept it.
  16. Attack in number. Don't rely on just one or two pieces.
  17. Look for double attacks.
  18. Play for the center: guard it, occupy it, influence it.
  19. Fight for the center with pawns.
  20. Don't make careless pawn moves. In the opening, move as few pawns as necessary to complete your development.
  21. If feasible, move both center pawns two squares each.
  22. In the opening, move only center pawns. Unless the opening system or situation requires otherwise.
  23. Try to develop your Bishops before blocking them in by moving a center pawn just one square.
  24. Develop your pieces quickly, preferably toward the center (especially Knights, which often are "grim on the rim").
  25. Develop purposefully, and not just for development's sake.
  26. Don't waste time or moves. Try to develop a new piece on each turn. Don't move a piece twice in the opening without good reason.
  27. Try to develop with threats, but don't threaten pointlessly.
  28. Develop minor pieces early. King-side pieces should usually be developed sooner than Queen-side ones, and Knights before Bishops.
  29. Develop during exchanges.
  30. To exploit an advantage in development, attack.
  31. In the opening, don't remove your Queen from play to "win" a pawn.
  32. Don't bring out the Queen too early, unless the natural course of play requires it.
  33. Try to give as much scope to your pieces as possible.
  34. Seize open lines.
  35. Develop Rooks to open files, or to files likely to open.
  36. Castle early.
  37. Try to prevent your opponent's King from castling. Keep it trapped in the center, especially in open games.
  38. Try to pin your opponent's pieces. Avoid pins against your own pieces.
  39. Don't capture pinned pieces until you can benefit from doing so. If possible, try to attack them again, especially with pawns.
  40. After castling, don't move the pawns in front of your King without specific reason.
  41. To attack the King, pick a target square around it.
  42. When applicable, pick target squares on the color of your unopposed Bishop. (Bishops control squares of only one color. If you have a Bishop that controls dark squares and your opponent has exchanged his corresponding Bishop, your dark-squared Bishop is "unopposed" on those squares.)
  43. Look for tactics especially on squares of the color controlled by your unopposed bishop.
  44. Try to avoid early exchanges of Bishops for Knights.
  45. Double your attacking pieces by building batteries (two or more pieces of like power attacking along the same line). Put queen and Rook(s) on the same file or rank, and Queen and Bishop on the same diagonal.
  46. Build batteries with the less valuable men up front, unless tactics require otherwise.
  47. Maximize the efficiency of your moves. Play flexibly.
  48. To strengthen control of a file, double your major pieces (Rooks and/or Queen) on it.
  49. Determine whether you have an open or closed game, and play accordingly.
  50. Usually play to retain you Bishops in open games, and sometimes Knights in closed games.
  51. To improve the scope of your Bishop, place your pawns on squares opposite in color to it.
  52. Keep your weaknesses on the color opposite to that of your opponent's strongest Bishop.
  53. Trade when ahead in material or when under attack, unless you have a sound reason for doing otherwise. Avoid trades when behind in material or when attacking.
  54. Choose a plan and stay with it. Change it only if you should or must.
  55. To gain space, you usually have to sacrifice time.
  56. If cramped, free your game by exchanging material.
  57. Trade bad minor pieces for good ones.
  58. If the position is unsettled, disguise your plans: make noncommittal moves.
  59. To gain space or open lines, advance pawns.
  60. If the center is blocked, don't automatically castle.
  61. If behind in development, keep the game closed.
  62. Try to accumulate small advantages.
  63. Try to dominate the seventh rank, especially with Rooks.
  64. Use the analytic method. When you don't know what to do, first evaluated the position (as best you can), then ask pertinent questions about your analysis.


Predrag Putic - fundamental checkmates

 

Fundamental Checkmates

Today's post is for the total beginner. There are a few important things nobody ever explained to me when first I learned chess. Way up there is the list of fundamental checkmates. I have read several beginning chess books and don't recall ever seeing it, although the closest I've seen is in Kane's Find the Next Move where he talks about corridor mates. Well in my view they all boil down to a few basic patterns.

I hardly can imagine that my work here is original, but if it is well, cool! I don't even know if it could rightly be called a theory, but that's a place to start. Anyway here is my Theory of Fundamental Checkmates:

All normal checkmates are
one of eight patterns.
All double-checkmates are one of five patterns composed of two normal checkmates.






Part 2

Examples:


This picture shows the 8 normal checkmates using Black pieces instead of capital "X"s.



The next 3 pictures use the same rook mating pattern. In each, the "X" squares are handled differently: first by White pieces controlling those squares, then by a mixture of Black pieces occupying those squares and White pieces
controlling those squares, and lastly by a mixture of Black pieces occupying those squares, White pieces controlling those squares, and the Black King on the edge of the board.








http://www.princeton.edu/~jedwards/cif/intro.html
http://www.chesskids.com/lessons04.shtml
http://library.thinkquest.org/6290/howtoplay.html#
http://www.chess.com/article/view/chess-rules--basics
http://www.chessclub.demon.co.uk/tutorial/learning/learning.htm
http://www.chess.com/download/view/learn-chess-or-call-me-an-idi
http://www.okschess.org/starting/Chess101.htm
http://www.chessdryad.com/education/magictheater/index.htm
http://www.markalowery.net/Chess/index1.html
mate with the queen (knight's position demo)
http://www.chesscourse.com/beginner/1.php
http://wgcenter.com/rules.php?game=Chess
http://www.easychess.info/beginners_guide_to_chess.htm
http://www.chessville.com/instruction/instr_begin_rules_start.htm
http://chess.eusa.ed.ac.uk/Chess/Rules/
sportsmanship.doc
moves.doc
promotion/draws.doc
notation.doc
scoresheet.doc
beginnercfc.pdf
TomManual.pdf
move1.pdf
move2.pdf
scoresheet.pdf
scoresheet2.pdf
scorebook.pdf
sahsola1.pdf
sahzazacetnike.pdf
partieformular.pdf
cmsecrets1.pdf
CFCchessManual.pdf
basicscoresheets.pdf
kcnchessscore.pdf
scoresheetsch.pdf
hawaiianscore.pdf
scorefriedfox.pdf
suttonscoresheet.pdf
chessscore01.pdf
kidsscore.pdf
roundrobin.pdf
6RdRR.pdf
10RdRR.pdf
20RdRR.pdf
essentialchess.pdf
ICS-thinking01.pdf
ICS-making_decisions.pdf
ICS-tactics-1.pdf
ICS_intro-kid.pdf
http://www.jdawiseman.com/papers/tournaments/all-play-all/all-play-all-links.html












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